I never thought much of feta cheese until I went to Greece. Before that, it was always a ubiquitous, spongy substance, characterless save for too much salt, used as filler in salads by mid-town office drones as they mobbed corporate eateries at lunch. In Greece it was another story. Over there, it was impossibly fresh, milky, and delightfully tangy. It was served with almost every meal, not broken up in a salad but placed reverently on top in a large slice; heated, it puffed up and became airy, yet didn’t lose its form.
Having ignored the pleasures of well-made feta for so long, it is not a familiar ingredient in my kitchen. But when I do use it now, it seems wise to follow the informal rules I observed over there: pair it with the best quality olive oil and the freshest dried herbs (no, that’s not a contradiction: the oregano that you picked yesterday and dried out overnight in the oven tastes significantly different from the stuff that’s been sitting in your cupboard for two years).
I decided to create this dish to be paired with braised lamb shanks because it echoed many of the pairings I enjoyed over there – lamb with feta and lamb with artichokes. And lemon potatoes are an old Greek favorite. I’m not a big fan of terms like “Greek-inspired” or “Asian-inspired” when it comes to cuisine, but I do think it makes sense to observe the pairings that are traditionally used, and follow those informal rules.
A note on artichokes: it’s quite simple to steam fresh artichokes in a little water and white wine and then remove the hearts, but unless you’re going to sit and enjoy the leaves, it seems not worth the effort. I usually use grilled artichoke hearts that are marinated in oil and herbs and can be found at Italian delis; canned artichoke hearts of good quality may also be used.
As for the potatoes, it’s a good idea to parboil them before roasting. As with breakfast potatoes or french fries, boiling them first allows them to remain fluffy on the inside before the high heat cooking browns and crisps the outside.
Ingredients:
- 2.5 lbs waxy potatoes
- 1 lb artichoke hearts
- 1 very juicy lemon
- 4 oz feta cheese
- 1 TBS each best quality dried oregano and thyme
- 2 TBS best quality olive oil
- Salt and Pepper
Directions:
Preheat oven to 425.
Skin the potatoes (or wash very well, if you prefer the skins on; I do not) and cut into 1-inch cubes. Submerge in a pot of cold water, add salt and a splash of white vinegar, and set heat to high. When the potatoes are half done (stick a fork in one cube and it should offer a good deal of resistance) drain, transfer to a large bowl, and toss with the juice of half the lemon. It is important to add acid to potatoes while they’re hot, as they will absorb it more fully and evenly.
While the potatoes are cooking, quarter the artichoke hearts. Add them to the bowl with the potatoes, then add the herbs, salt, pepper, and olive oil. Transfer to a heavy casserole or baking dish, then place in the oven.
Roast them for about 20 minutes, or until the potatoes are completely done. You should feel free to toss the mixture once or twice to distribute things evenly. The potatoes on the bottom of the pan will get deliciously crisp, and the artichokes on top will do the same. While it’s cooking, crumble the feta and reserve.
After 20 minutes has elapsed or the potatoes are done, sprinkle the mixture with the remaining half lemon and toss to coat evenly. Then sprinkle the mixture with the feta cheese and bake for another 8 minutes or so, until the feta is puffed and starting to brown. Finish in the broiler set on high for 2 minutes – less if the feta starts to blacken – until it is nicely browned on top. Let stand for a few minutes before serving.
The Grumpy Gastronome 
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