Have you ever tried wasabi mashed potatoes? They’re freakin amazing, and why don’t we see more of them? This is a more juvenile dish, designed when I was younger and probably a more skilled cook than I am now, having more recently exited the professional kitchen, but having eaten many fewer things. It’s silly, but also combines some of my favorite foods: fish, mushrooms, and potatoes. It does so in a way that is perhaps overly twee, but whatever. The idea here is that each element resembles an element of sushi: the fish is the fish (albeit cooked), the wasabi mashed potatoes are the wasabi, and the sliced mushrooms are the pickled ginger. This would be cool to make as little appetizers, I guess, but I have always done it as a main dish, which means that the portions are a bit off – I can’t imagine actually wanting as much wasabi relative to the fish as I do potatoes – but the concept remains in tact.
As for the type of fish, I suppose you could actually get several different kinds to complete the sushi theme. Hell, throw in a scallop and a clam if you want. But I’ve always done it with one type. It really should be a white, flaky fish, and I’ve used Patagonian Toothfish for this. It’s a good choice, both for how it tastes and how it looks. The fillet is thick enough that it stands up and looks like a piece of sushi – unlike, say, a flounder fillet. No reason you can’t do it with something flatter, but it would recommend a nice thick-filleted fish like the aforementioned Chilean Sea Bass, Striped Bass, or Halibut.
For the wasabi, I like to use wasabi powder and make the paste myself, since that way you’ve got a better chance of actually working with genuine wasabi. Most wasabi that is sold as a pre-made paste and served to you in sushi restaurants is actually just a mixture of horseradish, mustard, cornstarch, and yes, green food coloring. Wasabi itself is actually a very pale green, and not actually in the horseradish family at all. It’s a tricky plant to cultivate and therefore expensive, and very few people outside of Japan actually go to the trouble. But it is delicious and if you can get a powder that has a good percentage of actual wasabi in it, that’s what I would recommend.
Ingredients:
- 6 oz fish per person
- 2 TBS sesame oil
- ¼ cup flour
- 8 oz shitake mushrooms, stems removed and slice paper-thin
- 2 oz soy sauce
- 1.5 lbs russet potatoes
- ¾ cup milk
- 2 TBS butter
- 1 oz wasabi paste
- 1 TBS sesame seeds, toasted
- Salt and pepper
Directions:
Start by making the potatoes. For a more comprehensive guide of what to do and what not to do, go here, but in the meantime, here’s a quick rundown. Peel and rinse the potatoes, then chop into roughly 1-inch cubes. Place in cold water with some salt and a splash of white wine vinegar and bring to a boil. Cook completely until they are very soft. Drain and return to the pot, adding butter, milk, salt, pepper, and mash until the consistency is smooth. Fold in the wasabi paste and distribute evenly.
While the potatoes are cooking, prepare the rest of your ingredients. Slice the mushrooms and set aside. Slice each portion of fish into three 2-oz pieces (so they look like sushi, remember?) and set aside. Toast your sesame seeds in a dry pan over medium heat – watch out that they don’t burn.
When the potatoes are done, you’re ready to begin. The fish takes about 6 minutes to cook and the mushrooms less than that, so the potatoes will stay warm.
For the fish, sift the flour onto a plate and mix in salt and pepper. Heat 1 TBS of sesame oil in a skillet just big enough to hold your fish until it is very hot. Dredge the fish in the flour and immediately place in the skillet. Don’t touch it for 2-3 minutes, until the bottom edge is golden brown, then flip. At this point, turn the heat on another medium skillet to high and add the other TBS of oil.
When the oil is hot and while the fish is cooking on it’s second side, add the mushrooms to their skillet. Distribute evenly so they’re as close to one layer as possible. Let them cook for about a minute till they have given up their juices and are starting to become golden. Add the soy sauce and toss; cook for another 1 minute or so, stirring constantly. There should be no liquid left in the pan.
To plate, arrange each element to mirror a sushi platter – lay the slices of fish parallel to one another, make a small mound of mushrooms alongside, and a small mound of wasabi mashed potatoes next to that. Sprinkle sesame seeds along the top of each slice of fish and serve immediately.
The Grumpy Gastronome 
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